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“Colors”

Occasion:	Cuisine:	Area:	Cost:	Rating:
Night Out	New American	East Village	Moderate	Good

ressing that was tart, sweet, and hot at just the right moments. The serving was piled into such an impossibly high mound that I had to sit up straight to see over the top of it. We made a nice dent in it, but we could not even get through half of it. I took what I couldn’t finish home with me for lunch the next day. I could not bare to leave it behind.

Cheryl was all about the winter squash and wild mushroom risotto ($11)—super creamy Arobrio rice topped with shards of Parmesan and diced figs, and drizzled with aged balsamic vinegar. But I thought it was much too rich and creamy, more like rice and cheese than delicate risotto. And Julie loved the tuna ceviche ($15), which I agree was very good, but I think the chef took one too many steps toward dressing it up. He slices the fish into nice even rectangles tosses it with jalapeños, lime juice, and red onion. He should have left it alone there. But he adds a scoop of cold icy guava sorbet that just doesn’t work. It makes the fish taste frozen, and gritty. As I pushed the tuna around on my plate, a platter of fabulous fried oysters strutted by. My eyes followed them. I checked the menu—they were the crispy oysters ($12)—panko-crusted, with a gratin of spinach and spicy tamarind mayo. I made a mental note to try those next time. They looked great.

Our waiter, Fernando, was wonderful. He was constantly in attention, very enthusiastic about his restaurant, and quite knowledgeable about the origins of every dish and which employee had donated the recipe. He steered us to the slow roasted pork, an entrée based on a Colombian recipe. The platter was filled with heavenly shredded ropes of slow roasted pork with terrific fried plantains (as if fried plantains can ever be bad), and red rice and beans, topped with a fried egg that we punctured, letting its orange yolky heart bleed all over the rice, beans, and pork. If I had been given a tortilla, I would have made myself a fabulous little burrito on the fly. Yummy stuff, People. Sadly, the seared scallops and Madeira braised oxtails ($27) were not quite as good. Though the scallops were nicely seared, and quite plump and moist, the oxtails were overly sweet—too much Madeira in the mix there—but the sautéed mustard greens did help balance it out. The North Atlantic Fluke ($26) was a smash hit: two wide fillets, pan fried to a nutty brown crust, bedded on Napa cabbage, snow peas, and ... [more, click below]

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Posted: March 12, 2006

Other restaurants in East Village :
+ Yujin-- Closed   + Jack's Luxury Oyster Bar   + Mermaid Inn   + Five Points   + Lavagna   + Five Points   + Bond Street   + Jewel Bako   + Alphabet Kitchen   + In Vino   + Bao 111   + Chikalicious   + Il Buco   + Hearth   + Lima's Taste   + Mercadito   + Hedeh   + Momofuku   + Una Pizza Napoletana   + Winebar   + Uovo-- CLOSED   + Mo Pitkin's House of Satisfaction   + Gotham Bar & Grill   + Colors   + Chinatown Brasserie   + Knife and Fork   + European Union-- NEW CHEF; SEE APRIL 2007 Review   + Aroma Kitchen and Winebar   + Stand   + European Union   + Mercat   + Gemma   + Back Forty   + The Smith   + Seymour Burton   + Belcourt   + Graffiti   + The Redhead   + Double Crown    + Apiary   + Joe Doe   + Apiary by guest reviewer Kiri Tannenbaum   + DBGB   + Northern Spy   + Goat Town   + Saxon + Parole   + Il Buco Alimentari & Vineria   + Acme   + Calliope   + Nicoletta   + JEPPNEY by Claire Jaffe   + Feast   

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