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“Seymour Burton”

Occasion:	Cuisine:	Area:	Cost:	Rating:
Night Out	New American	East Village	Moderate	Good

e-boned (other than the wing), and stuffed with a gluttonous and glorious combination of mascarpone, lemon zest, and proscuitto, then pan-seared on the stove for a nice crispy skin and popped in the oven for to finish and is served with sautéed greens. Slice into the breast and it oozes (rather suggestively) with mascarpone, to hilarious effect, actually. The breast meat is juicy as a ripe summer peach, and just as sweet too, and the salty proscuitto offers the right balance to the mascarpone, and the lemon zest lifts the flavors, sharpening them, and brightening the dish. It’s a winner.

But still, I was not convinced that this was their best night. Service was friendly and sweet, but rushed. On the night of a favorable review, they had too many tables, and they were in the weeds. I felt for them and vowed to come back, for the burger, and for take number two.

I returned last week with Mel, an old friend and yoga teacher who lives around the corner from Seymour Burton and who has a fiercely critical palate. Mel and I had lost touch and this was a reunion dinner of sorts and we got a chance to catch up over a bottle of red for a while before ordering. (She’s opening her own yoga studio soon and I’ll be sharing news of that once it’s ready to go.) Anyway, as the bottle was starting to disappear, we decided it was time to eat. The JW pancakes were off the menu, replaced by a wonderful potato latke—thick, crisp, and potatoey—topped with thin sheets of smoked salmon, a drizzle of sour cream and a dollop of caviar ($15). Mel is a vegetarian (well, a fishetarian), and she shared her latke with me, but I was on my own with a special of the night—a wintry goat posole in green chile-laced broth with hominy. While this stew was right on in terms of spice and beautiful flavor, again, the kitchen needs to get those soups hotter.

We loved the boquerones ($12)—small fresh briny Spanish anchovies served with slivered red onions on three hefty slices of olive oil-soaked crostini. We could have stopped eating right there, but why? I wanted to try the burger and Mel was intrigued by the Eden Farms Brook Trout with fries. And so we ate more. And I’m glad we did. As I write this, my stomach is yearning for another one of those burgers, an ample grilled pup, similar in size and shape to Corner Bistro, made from Pat LeFrieda beef. It’s served sandwiched between an oversized toa ... [more, click below]

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Posted: January 28, 2008

Other restaurants in East Village :
+ Yujin-- Closed   + Jack's Luxury Oyster Bar   + Mermaid Inn   + Five Points   + Lavagna   + Five Points   + Bond Street   + Jewel Bako   + Alphabet Kitchen   + In Vino   + Bao 111   + Chikalicious   + Il Buco   + Hearth   + Lima's Taste   + Mercadito   + Hedeh   + Momofuku   + Una Pizza Napoletana   + Winebar   + Uovo-- CLOSED   + Mo Pitkin's House of Satisfaction   + Gotham Bar & Grill   + Colors   + Chinatown Brasserie   + Knife and Fork   + European Union-- NEW CHEF; SEE APRIL 2007 Review   + Aroma Kitchen and Winebar   + Stand   + European Union   + Mercat   + Gemma   + Back Forty   + The Smith   + Seymour Burton   + Belcourt   + Graffiti   + The Redhead   + Double Crown    + Apiary   + Joe Doe   + Apiary by guest reviewer Kiri Tannenbaum   + DBGB   + Northern Spy   + Goat Town   + Saxon + Parole   + Il Buco Alimentari & Vineria   + Acme   + Calliope   + Nicoletta   + JEPPNEY by Claire Jaffe   + Feast   

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