<< previous review   next review >>

reviews

“Acme”

Occasion:	Cuisine:	Area:	Cost:	Rating:
Night Out	New American	East Village	Moderate	Great

y Hanna Liden), and close-quarter brasserie tables. Given the beautiful crowds, the dining room buzzes with the energy of a wrap party for the "Mad Men" season finale, and the lighting is just right, a warm caramel that erases lines and leaves cheeks flush with the glow of just the right amount of Pinot Noir. You'll like the way you look in here.

Lucky for us, the food is as beautiful as the set. Some of it is a bit outlandish, like the hay-roasted sunchokes, and the lard-laced heirloom carrots, but it's fun, exciting, and wildly imaginative. A personal favorite was a platter of his house-cured salmon that's served in shimmering pink sheets over a tangle of shredded cabbage and a light and creamy horseradish and buttermilk dressing. It's light, delicious, and delivers on flavor, texture, and wonder. Salt-baked beets with red grapefruit, dressed simply in an aged vinegar, arrive in a gleaming white bowl, striped like peppermints and as red as rubies, salty, briny, and beautiful.  

A crostini marries an old 80's standby--baked brie-melted on top of creamy spread of caramelized butternut squash. It's an appetizer that I enjoyed, despite feeling like it was slightly out of place on such an elegant menu. To me, it seemed like something I might find at a friend's game night or on a Trader Joe's sample counter. I mean this in a good way. But you're back safe New Nordic territory with the chef's Farmer's Eggs, slightly reminiscent of the ones served up at Per Se, hollowed out shells piped with egg custard and cauliflower foam, soft, warm, and creamy, it's porridge by another name.

While the chef for the most part pleases, I wasn't a fan of the artic char, which was cooked nicely but tasted fishy and felt overrun by sherry vinegar and capers. But the steak is terrific; a New York Strip loin that's juicy and pink, served with a cascade of ramps and spring's first onions, sweetly charred. My only complaint would be that the dish needs a starch. Craving one, we ordered a side of hand cut fries for $8, and were served with a handful of golden potatoes with clever oyster mayo. But seriously, the kitchen gives out those fries in just slightly more abundance than Justice Thomas hands out questions at oral argument; I could count the fries in that silver cup on my two hands. More, please!

But we've now come to the end of the meal, the time of that magical s ... [more, click below]

Page 1  |  Page 2  |  Page 3  

 Make a reservation

<< previous review   next review >>

Posted: April 9, 2012

Other restaurants in East Village :
+ Yujin-- Closed   + Jack's Luxury Oyster Bar   + Mermaid Inn   + Five Points   + Lavagna   + Five Points   + Bond Street   + Jewel Bako   + Alphabet Kitchen   + In Vino   + Bao 111   + Chikalicious   + Il Buco   + Hearth   + Lima's Taste   + Mercadito   + Hedeh   + Momofuku   + Una Pizza Napoletana   + Winebar   + Uovo-- CLOSED   + Mo Pitkin's House of Satisfaction   + Gotham Bar & Grill   + Colors   + Chinatown Brasserie   + Knife and Fork   + European Union-- NEW CHEF; SEE APRIL 2007 Review   + Aroma Kitchen and Winebar   + Stand   + European Union   + Mercat   + Gemma   + Back Forty   + The Smith   + Seymour Burton   + Belcourt   + Graffiti   + The Redhead   + Double Crown    + Apiary   + Joe Doe   + Apiary by guest reviewer Kiri Tannenbaum   + DBGB   + Northern Spy   + Goat Town   + Saxon + Parole   + Il Buco Alimentari & Vineria   + Acme   + Calliope   + Nicoletta   + JEPPNEY by Claire Jaffe   + Feast   

Share ! Post a comment