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“In Vino”


  Occasion: Cuisine: Area: Cost: Rating:
  Night Out Italian East Village Cheap Eats Great

nest, tasty, and fun to eat, and like most wine bar eats, it is portioned to share with a big group, or just to feast among two. The menu is unique, going well beyond the standard cheese and cold cut plates, offering Crostini in Bagnacauda ($5)– crusty, fresh baked bread accompanied by a clay pot heated by a tea-light filled with savory spreads like tomato and truffle, olive, mushroom, or artichoke, each one cooked down to a thick, flavorful dip, perfect for slathering over the platform of warm carbs. The menu also offers Gratinati in Terrina ($7), oven-baked casseroles that are big enough for three or four people. We had a heavenly gratin made from layers of thinly sliced fried eggplant, smoky proscuitto, and luscious melting Mozzarella. This dish should be considered mandatory, with prison term imposed for those who fail to finish it. Another treat on the menu is the Antipasti (3 for $13), served in a trio of wide, shallow terra cotta bowls fitted into a wooden tray. Choices include stellar meatballs, light almost feathery in texture, served in a thick, hearty tomato ragu. There are about a dozen choices including a gorgeous dish of caramelized baby white onions that shine in their utter simplicity, as well as marinated fried zucchini with garlic and mint, polenta topped with sweet Italian sausages, and slow-cooked baby artichokes. Expect serious eating bliss.

In Vino is not only seductive but also fun to be seduced by. In relationships, fidelity is paramount. In the world of the wine bar, it’s nice to share the love. I am still enamored with and devoted to ‘inotecca, but I am now also happily having an affair with In Vino. I encourage you to do the same.

In Vino, 215 East 4th Street, between Avenue A and B, 212-539-1011.

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