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“Landmarc”

Occasion:	Cuisine:	Area:	Cost:	Rating:
Night Out	New American	Tribeca	Moderate	Great

average.) The large menu thing does mean that you may have a bit of a tough time deciding what to order, so here’s the low-down on what you might find in addition to steaks, mussels and pastas. Under apps, you’ve got dishes like fois gras terrine with pickled red onions ($12), as for salads, chose from classics, sized small and large, like frisee au lardons, with a nice runny poached egg on top $9/$14). Entrees include pan seared salmon with lentils and frisee ($19) and duck confit with white beans, chorizo and spinach ragout ($20). Wait there’s more. In a box entitled “Landmarc Specials,” you’ll find Marc’s signatures like crispy sweetbreads with horseradish and green beans ($21), and boudin noir with fries, caramelized onions and apples.

While I have to go back to try some more of the dinner menu, I have eaten all of the desserts, an easy task since they are miniature treats, $3 each or all six for $15, that includes one of the best lemon tarts in the city—a rectangular slab with a sweet-tart lemon curd slathered over dense and buttery pastry crust. (Note that the lemon tart at The Spotted Pig is still my favorite, though this one is a close second.) Landmarc’s eat-every-dessert gimmick is a smart way for the kitchen to get people to indulge, even if to just have a bite or two of sweetness before, very reluctantly, departing.

It is clear that with Landmarc, Marc has reached a level point in his career where he is not looking for Supa-Stah chef attention. At his restaurant, he wants to cook food that is easy to love and easy to return to, often. This may turn into a place like Five Points, where you feel at home and enjoy good food season after season, year after year. That, to me, is the surest sign of success. I wish Marc and Pam a lot of it.

Landmarc is at 179 West Broadway (b/w Leonard & Worth Streets), 212-343-3883. Reservations for parties of six or more only.

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Posted: April 4, 2004

Other restaurants in Tribeca :
+ Lunchbox Food Company--Closed   + 66: THIS RESTAURANT IS CLOSED   + Ola-- Closed   + Bouley   + Dominic   + Landmarc   + Pace-- Closed   + EN Japanese Brasserie   + Centrico   + Cercle Rouge   + The Harrison   + Turks & Frogs Tribeca   + Devin Tavern   + Dani-- Closed Now   + Bacaro/Smith & Mills   + The Harrison   + Matsugen, By Guest Reviewer Kathleen Squires   + Forge   + Macao Trading Company   + Harbour   + Review text tbd...   + Mehtaphor   + Brushstroke   + Jung Sik   

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