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“The Cafe at Aquavit”

Occasion:	Cuisine:	Area:	Cost:	Rating:
Night Out	New American	Midtown	Moderate	Good

I must confess that I am a HUGE fan of Marcus Samuelsson and his food. He is a visionary chef, wildly creative with a fanciful side and a keen perception for texture, flavor, and flash (not to mention that he is quite handsome), but I had not been to Aquavit in a few years. While what was on the plate always dazzled, I thought the room felt dated, and while people gushed about the waterfall, it never really did anything for me. It reminded me of something from a Mall in Paramus. (I prefer the real waterfalls streaming down the sides of mountains to the ones trickling down sheets of glass.) Marcus himself, when we were talking the other day, said it was very “New Jersey.” A few weeks ago, Marcus and his team picked up shop and moved away from “New Jersey,” a few blocks over (65 East 55th Street, between Park and Madison) to a stunning new space that features a sunny café up front, followed by a long modern lounge with a high wavy ceiling that looks like an ocean’s swell, stopped mid-undulation, and a handsome formal dining room in the back.

The new location—statuesquely modern in design by Owen & Mandolfo of New York and Arkitema of Copenhagen —has done wonders for the feel of this restaurant. Up in the light-filled café where I had lunch last week, you’ll find walls lined like corrugated cardboard, sturdy hard wood tables, comfortable earth-toned banquettes, Caribbean walnut floors, and elegant chandelier earring-styled light fixtures hung with shimmering pearl sea-shell like circles. (These are called Fun Lamps and were created by Danish designer Verner Panton.) The space is casually elegant and quite a comfortable place to dine, straddling the line between modern cafeteria and luxurious café.

I enjoyed much of the massive Smorgasbord Platter, especially the Gravlax with Espresso Mustard Sauce, Lemon and Dill, the Hot-Smoked Salmon with Horseradish, Yogurt and Cucumber, the Vodka Lime Herring with Salmon Roe and Dill, and the Matjes Herring with Red Onion and Sour Cream. Other items did not fare as well. The cold Swedish meatballs were uninspired and tasted like leftovers from the night before, the curried herring with apples and chives was too sweet, as was the smoked pork loin that came with a fat polka dot of porcini ketchup that was overwhelmingly cloying.

But I loved the Smoked Mackerel ($13) that arrived in three little open-faced sandwiches lined up like d ... [more, click below]

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Posted: February 5, 2005

Other restaurants in Midtown :
+ Lever House   + Aquavit   + RM   + Joseph's (formerly Citarella The Restaurant)   + Town   + Artisanal   + The Oyster Bar   + Geisha   + David Burke and Donatella Restaurant   + Riingo   + Amma   + Cafe Sabarsky   + The Stone Rose Lounge   + BLT Steak   + V, The Steakhouse-- Closed   + Bar Masa   + Cafe Gray   + The Bar Room at The Modern   + The Cafe at Aquavit   + The Cafe at Aquavit   + Bistro du Vent-- Closed   + Shaburi   + Xing   + The Modern   + Bar Americain   + Alto   + Park Blue   + Mainland-- Closed   + Nobu 57   + Quality Meats   + Dona-- CLOSED   + Daisy May's   + 7Square-- CLOSED   + Amalia   + Fireside   + Anthos   + Patroon   + BLT Market   + Toloache   + Mia Dona   + Park Avenue Summer   + Convivio   + The Oak Room by guest reviewer Julie Besonen   + At Vermilion by guest reviewer Elaine Weiner   + Lunching at Inakaya, by guest reviewer Kathleen Squires   + Marea, by Guest Reviewer Susan Kane Walkush   + Le Bernardin   + New York Central -- A Reason To Eat at the Grand Hyatt Again   + Pampano Botaneria by Dara Pollak   

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