<< previous review   next review >>

reviews

“The Cafe at Aquavit”

Occasion:	Cuisine:	Area:	Cost:	Rating:
Night Out	New American	Midtown	Moderate	Good

he ladies from Synagogue would love lunch at the café. We did too.

I enjoyed much of the massive Smorgasbord Platter, especially the Gravlax with Espresso Mustard Sauce, Lemon and Dill, the Hot-Smoked Salmon with Horseradish, Yogurt and Cucumber, the Vodka Lime Herring with Salmon Roe and Dill, and the Matjes Herring with Red Onion and Sour Cream. Other items did not fare as well. The cold Swedish meatballs were uninspired and tasted like leftovers from the night before, the curried herring with apples and chives was too sweet, as was the smoked pork loin that came with a fat polka dot of porcini ketchup that was overwhelmingly cloying.

But I loved the Smoked Mackerel ($13) that arrived in three little open-faced sandwiches lined up like dominoes—each one made up of a fabulous smoky hunk of meaty mackerel laid out on a lift of puffy cream cheese, topped with some pickled onions and a sprinkle of black pepper. The potato salad ($7) was nice as well—a very traditional dish composed of thick coin-shaped circles of potatoes in a mustard sauce with chopped egg and pearl onions that would be perfect for a picnic in Central Park. (Come to think of it, Marcus should do a basket for the concerts in the Park during the summer.)

The best part of my meal though was something quite unexpected—Tomato Soup ($14). Please, people! Do not miss this soup! It is an arresting magenta-colored puree that is poured over a garnish of porcini mushrooms, raisins, nuggets of bacon, and I believe some crisped capers. The soup has a luscious texture, slightly pulpy but silky on the tongue at the same time, and a deeply sweet and lightly tart flavor that is made even sharper by the contrast of the raisins. I was quite taken by this soup. It’s nice when something so seemingly ordinary turns out to be far more complex and intriguing than you would ever imagine.

Main courses, for the most part, did not compare to that soup. An unusually thick fillet of skate was served tucked into a large mound of sweet pea puree and a terrific caramel colored pool of mustard cream sauce. The fish was perfectly sautéed and browned from butter, but it lacked punch. While the mustard sauce was brilliant, the butterscotch-colored sweet pea puree was bland, and the monotone color pattern on the plate—all that beige—was drab and unappealing. The hot smoked salmon was a beautiful dish though, a bright pink fillet topped with asp ... [more, click below]

Page 1  |  Page 2  |  Page 3  

 Make a reservation

<< previous review   next review >>

Posted: February 5, 2005

Other restaurants in Midtown :
+ Lever House   + Aquavit   + RM   + Joseph's (formerly Citarella The Restaurant)   + Town   + Artisanal   + The Oyster Bar   + Geisha   + David Burke and Donatella Restaurant   + Riingo   + Amma   + Cafe Sabarsky   + The Stone Rose Lounge   + BLT Steak   + V, The Steakhouse-- Closed   + Bar Masa   + Cafe Gray   + The Bar Room at The Modern   + The Cafe at Aquavit   + The Cafe at Aquavit   + Bistro du Vent-- Closed   + Shaburi   + Xing   + The Modern   + Bar Americain   + Alto   + Park Blue   + Mainland-- Closed   + Nobu 57   + Quality Meats   + Dona-- CLOSED   + Daisy May's   + 7Square-- CLOSED   + Amalia   + Fireside   + Anthos   + Patroon   + BLT Market   + Toloache   + Mia Dona   + Park Avenue Summer   + Convivio   + The Oak Room by guest reviewer Julie Besonen   + At Vermilion by guest reviewer Elaine Weiner   + Lunching at Inakaya, by guest reviewer Kathleen Squires   + Marea, by Guest Reviewer Susan Kane Walkush   + Le Bernardin   + New York Central -- A Reason To Eat at the Grand Hyatt Again   + Pampano Botaneria by Dara Pollak   

Share ! Post a comment