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“Park Avenue Summer”

Occasion:	Cuisine:	Area:	Cost:	Rating:
Night Out	New American	Midtown	Break the Bank	Great

bing with what looked like croutons, but what turned out to be cubes of fried aioli that could be spread on toast points. In addition to main courses like the lamb chops, fire-roasted until they are juicy and pink in the center, and served over a faro and smoked cherry salad ($41), the menu offers a selection of more simple items from the grill—filet mignon, veal chop, wild salmon, and langoustines so sweet and so large that it seemed like one of them was trying to cop a feel with its outreached claw.

While sides may not seem necessary, since most main courses are nicely composed, as least a few should be ordered. You could even start with a snack of the crispy artichokes, quartered and lightly fried, topped with a fantastic malt vinegar aioli ($14), or the golden potato latkes, silver dollar in size, and super crunchy, with labne yogurt dipping sauce. (Have you gotten the idea that Koketsu likes Labne? It’s an ingredient that he shows makes a solid addition to any kitchen pantry, if not a singe subject cookbook.)

You must save room for dessert, or come back and have just dessert for dinner. They are the Willy Wonka-styled creations of the acclaimed Richard Leach, and they’re as whimsical as they are delicious, and include a sort of rice pudding egg roll with fresh cherries and cherry sorbet ($13), and a chocolate peppermint trio ($13) that’s a gourmand’s Peppermint Patty dream come true.

If you haven’t eaten at Park Avenue Summer, don’t wait as long as I did to go. Make a date in the near future to check it out. It’s a great place for a work event, a night out with friends, a date, or a dinner with the parents. You could probably even fit it in pre-theater. The service is attentive, the room feels warmed by the sun, and the food is truly exceptional. The kitchen excels at articulate flavors that are clean and precise, and consequently, delicious. I was not only impressed with the food, I loved the spirit of the cooking, and the thoughtfulness that comes through in the little details like those Jersey Shore sauces, or the smoked plums with the lamb, the malt vinegar aioli on the artichokes.

It’s hard for me to believe that just last week at this time Koketsu and his crew were cooking a completely different menu in a completely different restaurant. To change that much in a matter of 48 hours, and have it be this good, is pretty impressive. I’d be willing to go to Judge ... [more, click below]

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Posted: June 1, 2008

Other restaurants in Midtown :
+ Lever House   + Aquavit   + RM   + Joseph's (formerly Citarella The Restaurant)   + Town   + Artisanal   + The Oyster Bar   + Geisha   + David Burke and Donatella Restaurant   + Riingo   + Amma   + Cafe Sabarsky   + The Stone Rose Lounge   + BLT Steak   + V, The Steakhouse-- Closed   + Bar Masa   + Cafe Gray   + The Bar Room at The Modern   + The Cafe at Aquavit   + The Cafe at Aquavit   + Bistro du Vent-- Closed   + Shaburi   + Xing   + The Modern   + Bar Americain   + Alto   + Park Blue   + Mainland-- Closed   + Nobu 57   + Quality Meats   + Dona-- CLOSED   + Daisy May's   + 7Square-- CLOSED   + Amalia   + Fireside   + Anthos   + Patroon   + BLT Market   + Toloache   + Mia Dona   + Park Avenue Summer   + Convivio   + The Oak Room by guest reviewer Julie Besonen   + At Vermilion by guest reviewer Elaine Weiner   + Lunching at Inakaya, by guest reviewer Kathleen Squires   + Marea, by Guest Reviewer Susan Kane Walkush   + Le Bernardin   + New York Central -- A Reason To Eat at the Grand Hyatt Again   + Pampano Botaneria by Dara Pollak   

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