<< previous review   next review >>

reviews

“Bar Americain”

Occasion:	Cuisine:	Area:	Cost:	Rating:
Night Out	New American	Midtown	Moderate	Great

scheduled for the following night (she was going for the answering machine breakup), and the manager, who was walking around looking miserable, approached our table to fold Debbie’s napkin. But instead of folding it, she just picked it up, and then simply dropped it back on the table without a fold or even a little primp. Then she blankly walked off, back in her trance. Kiri and I had no idea what to make of her, but we did decide that she should either (a) drink a Red Bull during service to snap out of it, or (b) find another profession that does not require a smile, personality, or the ability to stay attentive to guests (or at least to napkins).

Anyway, soon Debbie was back (the guy did not have an answering machine!) and our entrees were promptly served—we got two hits and a slight miss. Lets get the slight miss out of the way: the Mussels and Fries Americain ($21) in Green Chile Broth. The mussels themselves were great—super plump babies pushing open shiny black shells, and they were served with fabulous wide-cut fries (we had to order another order, they were so good), but the broth had a bitter aftertaste, like the chiles were perhaps behaving badly. I like the idea of a green chile broth, but this batch had sharp, not spicy, undertones that made it unpleasant to eat. But our Red Snapper, Florida Style ($29) tilted us firmly back up into our happy place. The dish—a silky fillet crusted in an armadillo-like robe of plantains on black bean puree with a fresh mango salsa—is a clear nod to Mesa Grill. Certainly this sort of cooking does not push Flay into new territory, but who cares? It’s a winner.

The surprising smash hit of the evening was, of all things, chicken. I would come back to BA several times a week for Flay’s Rotisserie Poussin with Red Chiles and Fry Bread Salad ($25). With a blazing red chile crisped skin, this creamy fleshed chick comes with a fluffy microgreen salad tossed with pine nuts and currants, set atop a buttery, yet greaseless puff of Native American Indian inspired fry bread. The fry bread salad alone was enlightened, but paired with the bird, well, you’ve got yourself just a truly heavenly supper. It is a meal that lends itself to my Thanksgiving turkey approach—eating every last bit of meat off the carcass with my fingers. I think Lawrence Kretchmer, Bobby’s longtime business partner, was embarrassed by my less than lady-like eating tactics becaus ... [more, click below]

Page 1  |  Page 2  |  Page 3  |  Page 4  |  Page 5  

 Make a reservation

<< previous review   next review >>

Posted: May 9, 2005

Other restaurants in Midtown :
+ Lever House   + Aquavit   + RM   + Joseph's (formerly Citarella The Restaurant)   + Town   + Artisanal   + The Oyster Bar   + Geisha   + David Burke and Donatella Restaurant   + Riingo   + Amma   + Cafe Sabarsky   + The Stone Rose Lounge   + BLT Steak   + V, The Steakhouse-- Closed   + Bar Masa   + Cafe Gray   + The Bar Room at The Modern   + The Cafe at Aquavit   + The Cafe at Aquavit   + Bistro du Vent-- Closed   + Shaburi   + Xing   + The Modern   + Bar Americain   + Alto   + Park Blue   + Mainland-- Closed   + Nobu 57   + Quality Meats   + Dona-- CLOSED   + Daisy May's   + 7Square-- CLOSED   + Amalia   + Fireside   + Anthos   + Patroon   + BLT Market   + Toloache   + Mia Dona   + Park Avenue Summer   + Convivio   + The Oak Room by guest reviewer Julie Besonen   + At Vermilion by guest reviewer Elaine Weiner   + Lunching at Inakaya, by guest reviewer Kathleen Squires   + Marea, by Guest Reviewer Susan Kane Walkush   + Le Bernardin   + New York Central -- A Reason To Eat at the Grand Hyatt Again   + Pampano Botaneria by Dara Pollak   

Share ! Post a comment