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“Bar Americain”

Occasion:	Cuisine:	Area:	Cost:	Rating:
Night Out	New American	Midtown	Moderate	Great

e he sent over a steak knife and then (jokingly) offered to have waiters surround the table to I could pick the carcass clean in private. I thanked him kindly for his offers, but since Kiri and Debbie were in on the poussin attack as well, we didn’t really care.

After they pried the bare carcass from my chile-covered hands, we moved onto pastry chef Vicki Wells’ part of the menu—classic American desserts (all $9). Her lemon meringue crème brulee was flawless—a tart curd-like custard tucked under a burnished cap, topped with a fluff of meringue. But the Whiskey Éclairs were just short of divine intervention. Shaped like long lean lady fingers, these pate au choux tubes were piped with a thick pastry cream infused with whiskey and then shellacked with a burnt sugar glaze that gave them an unexpected but very welcome bit of crunch. The éclairs came with a carafe of warm caramel sauce that was poured over the pile of pastries, and then left for us to finish at our leisure. After all the éclairs were demolished, Kiri was pouring the sauce directly into her spoon, which went directly into her mouth.

I couldn’t help but wonder, as we sat there, licking yet another plate clean, what the frisky couple at the bar would have done if they had actually made it to dessert.

Bar Americain is located at 152 West 52nd Street (b/w 6th and 7th Avenues), 212-265-9700.

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Posted: May 9, 2005

Other restaurants in Midtown :
+ Lever House   + Aquavit   + RM   + Joseph's (formerly Citarella The Restaurant)   + Town   + Artisanal   + The Oyster Bar   + Geisha   + David Burke and Donatella Restaurant   + Riingo   + Amma   + Cafe Sabarsky   + The Stone Rose Lounge   + BLT Steak   + V, The Steakhouse-- Closed   + Bar Masa   + Cafe Gray   + The Bar Room at The Modern   + The Cafe at Aquavit   + The Cafe at Aquavit   + Bistro du Vent-- Closed   + Shaburi   + Xing   + The Modern   + Bar Americain   + Alto   + Park Blue   + Mainland-- Closed   + Nobu 57   + Quality Meats   + Dona-- CLOSED   + Daisy May's   + 7Square-- CLOSED   + Amalia   + Fireside   + Anthos   + Patroon   + BLT Market   + Toloache   + Mia Dona   + Park Avenue Summer   + Convivio   + The Oak Room by guest reviewer Julie Besonen   + At Vermilion by guest reviewer Elaine Weiner   + Lunching at Inakaya, by guest reviewer Kathleen Squires   + Marea, by Guest Reviewer Susan Kane Walkush   + Le Bernardin   + New York Central -- A Reason To Eat at the Grand Hyatt Again   + Pampano Botaneria by Dara Pollak   

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